Let’s talk lettering – Part I
Every embroidery software, from the simplest home software
to the most expensive commercial software, has a lettering function of some
kind. In the past, the quality of the
keyboard embroidered letters has varied amongst these as has the functionality
of the softwares to manipulate and edit them. These days, the user friendliness
has gotten much better even in the lower cost softwares and the differences
from brand to brand are blurring more and more.
But I don’t want to talk about specific brands of embroidery
software or their keyboard fonts. I mention this to say that there is a time
and a place for using keyboard lettering and a time when custom lettering
should be used. A good digitizer knows which is called for on
each job.
Since I am a custom digitizer working in the commercial
industry, I use the keyboard lettering maybe $30% to 40% of the time. The rest
of the time, my lettering is custom digitized by hand, specifically for the customer’s
logo. Even when using keyboard lettering, the individual letters still needed
to be edited for the fabric and for pull compensation. Never do I use keyboard lettering straight “out of the can” and my
software creates great lettering, however, no keyboard font can automatically
adjust for every fabric or design situation.
If you’re new to digitizing, you may tend to crutch on the
font lettering but avoid doing this too much.
Watch designs with lettering that sews well to see how the letters join
and corner for a better understanding of how lettering should look and path.
What you learn you will apply to your hand digitized lettering.
As for keyboard lettering itself, familiarize yourself with
what your lettering can do and recommended sizes for each font, understanding
that some lettering styles do better at smaller sizes than others. If you are extensively
editing the keyboard font you’re using, you are better off digitizing the letters
by hand. There’s a “gray area” once you get down to ¼” letters and below. There are some fonts that will do fine at a
slightly smaller size (Usually these are block type fonts with no serifs) but
fabric strongly comes into play at that point as to whether they will sew
cleanly. There’s no way to insure the design will do well as the customer sews
the design on multiple fabrics, but staying above the ¼” standard font size for
basic lettering will help. With wildly different fabrics, like fleece and
terry, you will need an alternate version of your design to accommodate those
incorporating more underlay and density.
Certain fabrics or designs will allow block lettering as
small as .16” tall to sew fairly descent, especially nylons and twill. Fabrics such as knits and some piques are
rather unforgiving even with ¼” lettering and will “sawtooth” much more. Generally,
the smaller the letters, the lower the density but you have to hit the “sweet
spot”. Dense enough for coverage and smooth edges but not so much as to cause crowded
spacing, knots and bunching at the joints and bulging of the letters
themselves. This is the reason that it’s preferable to know the fabric the design
is intended for right up front.
I want to take a moment here to mention True Type font
conversions. Keyboard embroidered lettering created from TT fonts on your
software. A few of these do, just, OK. Most suck. None of them compare to digitizing
lettering by hand. I’ve been doing this for over 20 years and I just don’t go
there, nuf said.
Understanding the dynamics of embroidered lettering,
densities, underlays, column widths and pull compensation and how each of these
relate to different fabric biases and types will take you farther down the road
than just always using keyboard fonts.
In Part II, we’ll cover the customer side and charging for
your time with lettering.
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NeedleUp Digitizing LLC is owned and operated by Donna Lehmann, a 20yr veteran of the embroidery/digitizing industry. She can be reached at NeedleUp, donna@needleup.com or 303-287-6633 for digitizing, consultation and classes M-F.
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