Embroidery Digitizing - Let's Talk Lettering - Part I

Let’s talk lettering – Part I

Every embroidery software, from the simplest home software to the most expensive commercial software, has a lettering function of some kind.  In the past, the quality of the keyboard embroidered letters has varied amongst these as has the functionality of the softwares to manipulate and edit them. These days, the user friendliness has gotten much better even in the lower cost softwares and the differences from brand to brand are blurring more and more.

But I don’t want to talk about specific brands of embroidery software or their keyboard fonts. I mention this to say that there is a time and a place for using keyboard lettering and a time when custom lettering should be used.   A good digitizer knows which is called for on each job.

Since I am a custom digitizer working in the commercial industry, I use the keyboard lettering maybe $30% to 40% of the time. The rest of the time, my lettering is custom digitized by hand, specifically for the customer’s logo. Even when using keyboard lettering, the individual letters still needed to be edited for the fabric and for pull compensation. Never do I use keyboard lettering straight “out of the can” and my software creates great lettering, however, no keyboard font can automatically adjust for every fabric or design situation.  

If you’re new to digitizing, you may tend to crutch on the font lettering but avoid doing this too much.  Watch designs with lettering that sews well to see how the letters join and corner for a better understanding of how lettering should look and path. What you learn you will apply to your hand digitized lettering.

As for keyboard lettering itself, familiarize yourself with what your lettering can do and recommended sizes for each font, understanding that some lettering styles do better at smaller sizes than others. If you are extensively editing the keyboard font you’re using, you are better off digitizing the letters by hand. There’s a “gray area” once you get down to ¼” letters and below.  There are some fonts that will do fine at a slightly smaller size (Usually these are block type fonts with no serifs) but fabric strongly comes into play at that point as to whether they will sew cleanly. There’s no way to insure the design will do well as the customer sews the design on multiple fabrics, but staying above the ¼” standard font size for basic lettering will help. With wildly different fabrics, like fleece and terry, you will need an alternate version of your design to accommodate those incorporating more underlay and density.

Certain fabrics or designs will allow block lettering as small as .16” tall to sew fairly descent, especially nylons and twill.  Fabrics such as knits and some piques are rather unforgiving even with ¼” lettering and will “sawtooth” much more. Generally, the smaller the letters, the lower the density but you have to hit the “sweet spot”. Dense enough for coverage and smooth edges but not so much as to cause crowded spacing, knots and bunching at the joints and bulging of the letters themselves. This is the reason that it’s preferable to know the fabric the design is intended for right up front.

I want to take a moment here to mention True Type font conversions. Keyboard embroidered lettering created from TT fonts on your software.  A few of these do, just, OK.  Most suck. None of them compare to digitizing lettering by hand. I’ve been doing this for over 20 years and I just don’t go there, nuf said.

Understanding the dynamics of embroidered lettering, densities, underlays, column widths and pull compensation and how each of these relate to different fabric biases and types will take you farther down the road than just always using keyboard fonts.

In Part II, we’ll cover the customer side and charging for your time with lettering.

*****************************

NeedleUp Digitizing LLC is owned and operated by Donna Lehmann, a 20yr veteran of the embroidery/digitizing industry. She can be reached at NeedleUp, donna@needleup.com or  303-287-6633 for digitizing, consultation and classes M-F.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Embroidery Digitizing: The incredible shrinking (or enlarging) design

There will be times when a customer decides they want a left chest size version of the jacket back they just had digitized (or vice versa) and you will have to explain to them why it will have to be redigitized. It’s hard for a customer to understand since to them, we’re just pushing computer buttons and all the magic happens in the program, right?

If you’re enlarging a design from a 4” chest size to 10” or 12” jacket size you will likely have to have portions (or all) of the design repunched or satin stitches converted to fills.  Once a satin or column stitch gets above a certain width, a fill stitch needs to be used instead so that the machine is not making huge movements and stitches are not too wide.  If a satin stitch is wide enough for a pencil to be inserted on the open end of the column, it is much more likely that the stitching will snag and ruin the embroidery, especially on jacket backs since the wearer will lean up against seat backs, etc.

There’s also the issue of detail.  What seems very detailed at 3-4” wide looks elementary when enlarged to 10” and gaps appear between joints and other elements that were not an issue in the smaller compact version of the design.  Any flaws that might have been virtually unnoticeable at chest size now appear. Remember, as you’re enlarging the design 250%, you’re also enlarging the spaces and gaps between elements 250%.

Conversely, if your intention is to shrink a design from jacket size, you are going to have the opposite issue.  Fill areas will become too small or narrow to use fill stitches efficiently and must be converted to satin stitches.  Satin stitches, such as outlines, that get even smaller must normally be repunched with running stitches once they get below about 1.5mm wide.  Some design details get too small to even include in the final design and must be eliminated.

These things are important to talk to your customer about, especially if they will be ordering both chest and jacket sized versions of their design. If there is an element that cannot be included once the design is small enough for chest applications, sometimes the customer will opt to leave it off the larger version so the two designs will still look exactly the same. Either way, you are giving your customer the information they need to make an informed decision when they order their digitizing.

For more information about NeedleUp's digitizing services, please visit our website at http://www.needleup.com where you can view some of our most recent work and get pricing and more information on contacting us.  Donna Lehmann is owner of NeedleUp Digitizing and she can be reached at 303-287-6633

Embroidery Digitizing: Right Way VS Customers Way

We all know there’s a right way and a wrong way to do things, however relative that may be, but what happens when a customer brings in a previously embroidered garment which frankly, was clearly digitized incorrectly?


This is fairly common and frequently the customer doesn’t realize and is unaware of how much better their logo could be. I’m speaking about aesthetics here since the customer is only seeing the final design, however, if the design is poor, the production quality will undoubtedly be bad also.

But, what if the customer loves the logo on the garment and wants it duplicated? What if they think it’s the “cat’s pajamas” and they just don’t have access to the stitch file?

Now is the time to discuss with the customer what they want, what you see and their expectations for the job. Find out what they like and don’t like about the original design so you can determine whether you’ll be able to make improvements they will love. Communicate with them about how you would do the design, pointing out things you might change if they seem open to them. Never criticize the original design out-right or the person who did the digitizing; it just makes you seem petty and unprofessional. I don’t comment to the quality unless they ask, point blank…then I’m honest but tactful, speaking more to how I can make it better and cleaner.

I try to avoid duplicating cruddy embroidery at all costs, but, if after all this, the customer is adamant that the design look exactly like the original, then you’re obligated to recreate the design exactly. Believe me, it’s a shot to the heart but it’s what the customer wants. Visually, you should strive to make the logo look the same, using the same stitch types and angles, but there are always improvements you can make to the way it paths and sews at the machine that will help in production.

The bottom line is, you’ve made your customer happy and next time, you won’t be duplicating someone else’s design, you’ll be digitizing their latest original!

************** Donna Lehmann ownes NeedleUp Digitizing LLC and has been commercially digitizing for 21 years. Donna also writes, teaches and consults about the industry and can be reached at NeedleUp 303-287-6633.

Copyrights: What’s the real deal? Part II of II

So we’ve talked about customers coming in with designs not belonging to them but what about the issue of who owns the designs, the actual stitch files, which were digitized legally?


Large stock design companies have designs you can purchase online, such as Dakota Collectibles, to use to embroider goods. When you purchase a design from them, it’s understood (and written in their use agreement) that you’re purchasing the license to use the design, not the rights to the design itself. Therefore you may not give, share or sell these designs to anyone else.

With regard to the legality of a design you (embroiderer) are producing garments with, if you digitized the design, it belongs to you. You may decide to transfer the copyright to the company or person you digitized the design for. If the design is given without that protection, the recipient runs the risk that minds will be changed and their right to use it later will be challenged.

When the design is provided to you (embroiderer) by an outside digitizer, unless and until the rights to the design are transferred in writing to you (or anyone), they remain the property of the creator (digitizer). This is why you cannot give or sell the design later to someone else, since it does not belong to you. You are only being given the license to use the design to produce garments for your customer.

If you’ve been in the embroidery business for a while, you’ve probably unwittingly reproduced a copyrighted work. Since you can’t know every design out there but need to cover yourself and your business, a copyright indemnification clause, added to your company’s order forms, will in most cases establish your policy, protect you and set your customer straight. Check your state’s copyright and trademark statutes or a copyright lawyer to be certain your copyright clause covers you.

I’ve turned down many jobs of people wanting me to digitize Mickey Mouse, Donald Duck, Betty Boop or the Pink Panther. People actually get really pissed when I tell them no, especially when they’ve (illegally) incorporated them into their company logos…yes, it happens. You have to do the right thing. Protect yourself and your business.

****************************************************************

Information contained in this article is for informational purposes only and should not be taken as professional legal advice. Companies mentioned in this article are used only as examples. Contact a copyright lawyer in your area for specific legal determinations and issues.

For more information about NeedleUp's digitizing services, please visit our website at www.needleup.com where you can view some of our most recent work and get pricing and more information on contacting us. Donna Lehmann is owner of NeedleUp Digitizing and she can be reached at 303-287-6633